Gala dinner of the Asia-Europe meeting

Gödöllő hosted the 10th Asia–Europe Meeting (ASEM) of Foreign Ministers, on 6 and 7 June 2011. No wonder extraordinary security measures were enforced to safeguard the gala dinner, which was held in the Museum of Fine Arts in Heroes Square.

Rolled in from Gödöllő, guests were greeted with finger food (goose liver rillettes, duck liver on apple fritters, Tihany Camembert with grapes) and chilled beverges (Törley Chardonnay Brut 2006, Sió orange juice, Theodora mineral water).

The evening began with a guided tour of the temporary exhibition of “The Eight”, one of Hungary’s most important avant-garde groups of artists of the early 20th century (1909-1918). The group includes recognised painters such as Béla Czóbel, Károly Kernstok and Bertalan Pór. The delegations showed true interest in Hungarian painting. After the guided tour, guests viewed a short show by the Hungarian State Folk Ensemble. Founded in 1951, the Ensemble is engaged in collecting, keeping alive and presenting on stage, traditional folk dances and folk music of Hungarian-speaking regions. Helga Gál, sommelier of the Presidency, introduced the wines that were served during the evening to guests.

Wines and Dishes of the Gala Dinner

Focussing on the culture of wine, the Hungarian Presidency selected different wine regions to host each gala event. The ASEM gala dinner witnessed a return of the North Hungary Wine Region, whose wines had been served at the first two events, setting a framework for the past six months. In addition to superior quality, a perfect match with the dishes has been one of the criteria when selecting wine throughout the semester. Offering an insight into the diversity of Hungarian viticulture and wine making was another criterion when making the selection.

The wine: S.D. Gloria 2007 (Tibor Gál, Eger)

The primary native rock in the vineyards of this Eger estate is volcanic tuff consisting of consolidated residuary volcanic ash. In addition to containing micro elements, this type of soil is known for its water retention and nutrient storage properties. The name “Soli Deo Gloria” (Glory to God Alone), also known as S.D.Gloria, is a reminiscent of reformers, particularly Calvin. Gloria is a blend of barrel-aged wines from five grape varieties: viognier, chardonnay, Rhine riesling, pinot blanc and tramini. It is a substantial, layered white Eger cuvée characterised by vivid acids, fruitiness and minerality. The dominance of the terroir meets the values of traditional technology.

The entrée: smoked acipenser with marinated zucchini. This genus is a great surviver of the animal kingdom. After the Ice Age, ancient peoples, such as the Phoenicians, the Greeks and the Egyptians have already fished for strugeons and collected its roe called caviare. Smoked strugeon and caviare are referred to in Greek and Roman literature as Epicurean food, or by the Persian as a health restoring panacea. The Hungarian name “vizafogó” (sturgeon catcher) of a location, which is now a part of Budapest, is a reminder of fishing for sturgeon that swam upstream the Danube. Smoked sturgeon is pleasantly complex in flavours. It was sautéed and served with a mixture of slices of yellow and green zucchini vinegar, oil and salt. It was also accompanied with “paprika tartar” made of small cubes of fleshy paprika seasoned with oil, salt and a pinch of pepper.

The soup: Goose liver consommé with jellied eggs

Goose liver consommé was prepared as usual from chicken broth, chicken giblets, carrots, Hungarian turnips, parsnips, cellery, mushrooms and spices. Goose liver pieces were fried moderately to evaporate all the liquid, were placed in the degreased and strained broth to continue the reductive process of cooking the soup. Jellied eggs were added to the soup. To make jellied eggs, the chef took 2 whole eggs and added 80 grams of egg yolks, 150 grams of heavy (30%) cream and some salt to taste. After mixing the ingredients thoroughly, the chef steamed the jelly to perfection in a covered water bath at 70°C. It was a fine and tasty soup.

The wine: Peresi Mátrai cuvée 2007 (Mátyás and Zoltán Szőke, Gyöngyöstarján)

The Mátra Foothills sub-region covers slightly more than 7,000 hectares. This is the largest wine sub-region in Hungary with hard ground, and brown forest soil covering a volcanic substrate. Peresi is a blend of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon, resulting from grapes selected from slopes with the most favourable growth features. The harmonious taste of this fiery ruby colour wine is achieved through ageing. It is characterised by a ripe fruity bouquet reminiscent of black currant on the palate. The wine was aged for 13 months in oak barrels, which is used once or twice.

The dish prepared to match the wine was sautéed leg of deer with miller’s millets and beet root confit. The deer was a fine companion for the wine and is also a noble representative of the game stock of the Mátra hills. Cuts of deer leg were sautéed until tender in a brown sauce with red wine. Millets were boiled with salt, pepper, green herbs and diced carrots. Domed on the plate, it was topped with pieces of fried bacon. This is the way a “miller” would have served it. Strained and thickened, the brown sauce with red wine also featured in arranging the dish as beet root confit preserved in oil.

The dish prepared to match the wine was sautéed leg of deer with miller’s millets and beet root confit. The deer was a fine companion for the wine and is also a noble representative of the game stock of the Mátra hills. Cuts of deer leg were sautéed until tender in a brown sauce with red wine. Millets were boiled with salt, pepper, green herbs and diced carrots. Domed on the plate, it was topped with pieces of fried bacon. This is the way a “miller” would have served it. Strained and thickened, the brown sauce with red wine also featured in arranging the dish as beet root confit preserved in oil.

The wine: Tokaji aszú 5 puttonyos 2002 (Disznókő Winery, Mezőzombor)

The wine district of Tokaj was the first enclosed district in the world (1737). Strict regulations dictate that only white grapes can be planted in the sub-region, which covers close to 6,000 hectares of production area. Tokaj owes its uniqueness to geological diversity due to rich volcanic activity, individual micro-climate and century-long traditions. The result is a unique wine region whose characteristics are equally well suited for producing both sweet and dry wines. The Disznókő 5 puttonyos aszú glistens in light gold. Its bouquet carries apricot and vanilla, capturing the nose with a slightly spicy scent mingled with botrytised characteristics. On the palate, it first demonstrates sophisticated smoothness followed by a long fresh and complex acidic structure. It is a rich and fruity classic Tokaj wine.

Hazelnuts dominated the dessert trilogy composed to match the Tokaj aszú. The triplet of hazelnut desserts was perched on a stripe of caramel air-brushed onto the plate. The first two elements comprised a ball of hazelnut mousse, dropped on heavy beaten pastry and then glazed with a layer of apricot jam. The third component of the dessert was a hazelnut truffle rolled from chocolate, heavy cream, crushed wafers and hazelnuts. Tokaji aszú also harmonised well with these sweet delicacies.

Gönci Apricot Palinka (from Prekop Distillery, Miskolci Liquor Factory), was served with the coffee following the dessert. Called “Gönci” to denote its origin, this apricot palinka was distilled from fruit collected in the Gönc area of the Abaúj hills, also famous for their barrels. The area mostly grows the Hungarian variety, along with other varieties approved for plantation, such as Gönc Hungarian apricots and Cegléd purple apricots. This smooth palinka was made of pitted apricots to preserve a full range of harmonising aromas deriving from the fruit. Gönci Barackpálinka displays its typical fruity character at 40 degrees of alcohol. It is a harmonic palinka with full body and a pleasant aroma.

The gala dinner of the Asia-Europe Meeting, enchanted the dinner party with worthy wines and matching dishes that lived up to the significance of the event. Based essentially on wines, the gastronomic ideas of the Hungarian Presidency introduced a new approach into the multifarious world of similar events held by the Member States; and contribute to promoting the fame and recognition of Hungarian wines, sparkling wines and palinkas.

Sándor Csíki